OLLY SMITH: The greatest sea wine of all – Muscadet

Muscadet is fantastic with shellfish and just right for a lunchtime soup

On days off, Neptune is likely surfing his realm and waving his trident while eating mussels. I have no doubt that the ocean god's cup of barnacles encrusted with the largest white wine by the sea is crowded with everyone – Muscadet.

The Melon de Bourgogne grape, which is grown around Nantes at the mouth of the Loire, receives a unique magical sea spray freshness in Muscadet.

There is more character and texture in the age of "sur lie" – dead yeast – which sounds unattractive, but actually gives the wine additional depth and more richness.

It's one of my favorite summer aperitifs, amazing with shellfish and quick alcohol, which also makes it perfect for a sip at lunchtime. But the best of everything? Muscadet is still ridiculously undervalued, which proves that Neptune loves a bargain.